Amigurumi – Crochet Duckling “Nakinaknak”

An Amigurumi Crochet Duckling is a breeze with this detailed crochet pattern. The crocheted duckling “Nakinaknak” captivates with its compact and simple form. The large eyes invite cuddling and playing, and the Amigurumi Duckling fills an adult’s hand completely.

Introduction: Amigurumi – Crochet Duckling “Nakinaknak”

Before we can start crocheting the Amigurumi Duckling, it is important to prepare well. Here you will find all necessary information about prerequisites, materials, and size that you need. If you need help, you can simply use the corresponding additional links.

Attention! Amigurumis are very cute and, therefore, not only popular among adults. Children often see them as toys, so you should be especially careful. Amigurumis that are not intended for play should be kept out of the reach of children. If an Amigurumi is meant to be played with by children, you should strictly adhere to the guidelines for toys. If you plan to give away or sell Amigurumis (license for sellers), you must strictly adhere to the legal requirements for toys and display the required CE marking.

Prerequisites

The following techniques should already be familiar to you so that you can easily follow this crochet pattern for the Amigurumi Duckling. If you do not master all of them yet, you will find comprehensive tutorials here to learn them.

• Chain Stitches
• Decreases
• Double Crochet Stitches (UK!)
• Half Treble Crochet Stitches (UK!)
• Increases
• Loops of a Stitch
• Magic Ring
• Slip Stitches
• Spiral Rounds
• Turning Chain Stitches

Note! By offsetting regular increases and decreases, they become almost invisible. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you.

Note! Using a special technique for invisible decreases makes them nearly invisible. Although this technique requires a bit of practice, it’s worth giving it a try.

Supplies

The depicted Amigurumi Duckling was made using the materials listed here. You can crochet the Amigurumi Duckling with a different yarn if you use an appropriate needle size. You will get a comparable result if you use exactly these materials. In addition to the materials, you will also find a list of the necessary tools and supplies here.

Note! The specified yarn was used for the example shown here. In principle, you can use any yarn and an appropriate needle size. However, the quality of the material also affects the quality of the result, so you should avoid cutting corners in the wrong place. Also, the thickness of the yarn and the needle will influence the size of the outcome, which you can, of course, intentionally take advantage of.

Note! I have used safety eyes here. If you have never attached safety eyes before, you can also find detailed instructions on how to attach safety eyes here. In addition to a wide selection of other safety eyes, there are also numerous alternatives for amigurumi eyes. Simply use the eyes that you like best.

Size

Here are the size specifications for the crocheted duckling. The height was measured while sitting. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.

Needle Size	Yardage	Size
Crochet Hook 12	137 yds / 1.75 oz	6 inches
Crochet Hook 11	120 yds / 1.75 oz	?
Crochet Hook 9 or 10	93 yds / 1.75 oz	?

Note! If you want to change the size, you can simply use a thicker or thinner yarn with a suitable needle size. Simply doubling the rounds, rows, and stitches, on the other hand, will only result in an uneven outcome.

Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Crochet Duckling “Nakinaknak”

For the Amigurumi Crochet Duckling, we first crochet the head, body, wings, beak, and legs. Afterward, all parts are sewn together, and then your crocheted duckling is already finished.

Crochet Head (1x)

The head for the Crochet Duckling is crocheted from top to bottom with double crochet stitches (UK!) in spiral rounds. The head receives safety eyes, is filled and stuffed, but not completely closed.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• yellow:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 6th round:
  • double every 5th stitch
  • = 36 stitches
• 7th round:
  • double every 6th stitch
  • = 42 stitches
• 8th round:
  • double every 7th stitch
  • = 48 stitches
• 9th round:
  • double every 8th stitch
  • = 54 stitches
• 10th round:
  • double every 9th stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• 11th round:
  • double every 60th stitch
  • = 61 stitches
• 12th round:
  • double every 61st stitch
  • = 62 stitches
• 13th round:
  • double every 62nd stitch
  • = 63 stitches
• 14th round:
  • double every 63rd stitch
  • = 64 stitches
• 15th round:
  • double every 64th stitch
  • = 65 stitches
• 16th round:
  • double every 65th stitch
  • = 66 stitches
• 17th round:
  • double every 66th stitch
  • = 67 stitches
• 18th round:
  • double every 67th stitch
  • = 68 stitches
• 19th round:
  • double every 68th stitch
  • = 69 stitches
• 20th round:
  • double every 69th stitch
  • = 70 stitches
• 21st round:
  • double every 70th stitch
  • = 71 stitches
• 22nd round:
  • double every 71st stitch
  • = 72 stitches
• 23rd – 25th round:
  • (= 3 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 72 stitches
• attach safety eyes, position:
  • after the 24th round
  • 14 stitches distance
• 26th round:
  • crochet together every 11th and 12th stitch
  • = 66 stitches
• 27th round:
  • crochet together every 10th and 11th stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• 28th round:
  • crochet together every 9th and 10th stitch
  • = 54 stitches
• 29th round:
  • crochet together every 8th and 9th stitch
  • = 48 stitches
• 30th round:
  • crochet together every 7th and 8th stitch
  • = 42 stitches
• 31st round:
  • crochet together every 6th and 7th stitch
  • = 36 stitches
• 32nd round:
  • crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 33rd round:
  • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• cut the thread, pull off the loop

Crochet Body (1x)

The body for the Crochet Duckling is crocheted from bottom to top in spiral rounds with double crochet stitches (UK!) and half double crochet stitches. The body is fully filled and stuffed, but not completely closed, and is later sewn to the head with the thread end and opening.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• yellow:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 6th round:
  • double every 5th stitch
  • = 36 stitches
• 7th round:
  • double every 6th stitch
  • = 42 stitches
• 8th round:
  • double every 7th stitch
  • = 48 stitches
• 9th round:
  • double every 8th stitch
  • = 54 stitches
• 10th round:
  • double every 9th stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• 11th round:
  • 45x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • repeat 2x:
    • 1x one half treble crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x two half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • repeat 2x:
    • 1x two half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x one half treble crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • 5x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 66 stitches
• 12th – 16th round:
  • (= 5 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 66 stitches
• 17th round:
  • 52x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 63 stitches
• 18th round:
  • 51x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• 19th + 20th round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• 21st round:
  • crochet together every 19th and 20th stitch
  • = 57 stitches
• 22nd round:
  • crochet together every 18th and 19th stitch
  • = 54 stitches
• 23rd round:
  • crochet together every 17th and 18th stitch
  • = 51 stitches
• 24th round:
  • crochet together every 16th and 17th stitch
  • = 48 stitches
• 25th round:
  • crochet together every 15th and 16th stitch
  • = 45 stitches
• 26th round:
  • crochet together every 14th and 15th stitch
  • = 42 stitches
• 27th round:
  • crochet together every 13th and 14th stitch
  • = 39 stitches
• 28th round:
  • crochet together every 12th and 13th stitch
  • = 36 stitches
• 29th round:
  • crochet together every 11th and 12th stitch
  • = 33 stitches
• 30th round:
  • crochet together every 10th and 11th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 31st round:
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Wings (2x)

The wings for the Crochet Duckling are crocheted from tip to base in spiral rounds with double crochet stitches (UK!). The wings are not filled but only folded flat and later sewn to the body with the remaining thread end.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• yellow:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 5th round:
  • double every 5th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 6th – 12th round:
  • (= 7 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 13th round:
  • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 14th round:
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Beak (1x)

The beak for the Crochet Duckling is crocheted from tip to base in spiral rounds with double crochet stitches (UK!). The beak is not filled but only folded flat and later sewn to the head with the remaining thread end.

Tip: Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Dazu verwendest du einfach die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise.

(Redaktion: Block ersetzen)

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• orange:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th + 5th round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 6th round:
  • 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 2x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • into the front loop only:
    • 1x three half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x one slip stitch into one stitch
    • 1x three half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • 2x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x one slip stitch into one stitch
  • = 16 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Legs (2x)

The legs for the Crochet Duckling are crocheted from toe to hip with double crochet stitches (UK!) in spiral rounds. The legs are not filled but only folded flat and later sewn to the body with the remaining thread end.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• orange:
• 1st row:
  • 8 chain stitches
  • 1 turning chain stitch
  • = 8 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • 7x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x three double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • turn
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 1x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 3rd – 5th round:
  • (= 3 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 6th round:
  • crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 7th round:
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 8th round:
  • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 9th round:
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 10th round:
  • crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
  • = 6 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Finish Amigurumi Duckling

Once all parts are finished crocheting, you can sew your Amigurumi Duckling together. However, it is helpful to put the items together with pins. So you see if the positions are correct and can still easily make changes.

Sew Head to Body

First, we sew the head all around to the body. Both openings face each other. The pointed side of the body is the center of the back, and the midpoint between the eyes is on the front. You can orient yourself using the pattern for sewing open parts together.

Sew Beak to Head

Afterward, we sew the beak all around to the head with the remaining thread end. To do this, first, pin it around with pins. It sits exactly in the middle between the eyes, with the top edge at the same height as the top edge of the eyes. Now you can sew the beak piece by piece. Finally, secure the thread end inside.

Sew Wings to Body

Next, fold the wings flat and sew them to the body with the openings using the thread ends. They sit horizontally around the 27th round and have a distance of 14 stitches on the front. Once the wings are securely sewn, secure the thread ends inside the body.

Sew Legs to Body

Now we sew the legs with the flat-folded opening to the underside of the body. Use the thread ends for sewing and secure them later inside the legs. The legs sit around the 9th round with a distance of 4 stitches in the middle.

Done!

Great, you did it! Your Amigurumi Duckling looks surely at least as cute. Therefore, we would be very happy about a comment with a photo!

Wenn dir diese Anleitung Freude bereitet hat, dann gefallen dir vielleicht auch die anderen Amigurumis der Onafu Serie. Schau dir doch mal die folgenden Anleitungen an!