Amigurumi – Crochet Moose “Sören”

The adorable Amigurumi Crochet Moose is created with this crochet pattern in just a few steps. Sören is a charming crocheted moose who loves winter as much as Christmas. The only thing he hasn’t quite mastered is decorating the Christmas tree, which is why he often gets tangled up!

Introduction: Amigurumi – Crochet Moose “Sören”

To successfully crochet the Amigurumi Moose, some preparation is essential. Here, you will find comprehensive information about the required prerequisites, materials, and size. If you need assistance, additional links are provided.

Attention! Amigurumis are very cute and, therefore, not only popular among adults. Children often see them as toys, so you should be especially careful. Amigurumis that are not intended for play should be kept out of the reach of children. If an Amigurumi is meant to be played with by children, you should strictly adhere to the guidelines for toys. If you plan to give away or sell Amigurumis (license for sellers), you must strictly adhere to the legal requirements for toys and display the required CE marking.

Prerequisites

For successfully replicating this crochet pattern for the Amigurumi Moose, it is crucial that you are already familiar with the following crochet techniques. Detailed tutorials for each technique are available here, allowing you to quickly learn them yourself.

• Decreases
• Double Crochet Stitches (UK!)
• Increases
• Loops of a Stitch
• Magic Ring
• Spiral Rounds

Note! By offsetting regular increases and decreases, they become almost invisible. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you.

Note! Using a special technique for invisible decreases makes them nearly invisible. Although this technique requires a bit of practice, it’s worth giving it a try.

Supplies

The material described here was used for the featured Amigurumi Moose. The Amigurumi Moose can be crocheted with any yarn and the corresponding hook size. For an authentic result, it is recommended to use these materials as accurately as possible. In addition to the materials, you will also find all the necessary tools and supplies here.

Note! I have used safety eyes here. If you have never attached safety eyes before, you can also find detailed instructions on how to attach safety eyes here. In addition to a wide selection of other safety eyes, there are also numerous alternatives for amigurumi eyes. Simply use the eyes that you like best.

Note! The specified yarn was used for the example shown here. In principle, you can use any yarn and an appropriate needle size. However, the quality of the material also affects the quality of the result, so you should avoid cutting corners in the wrong place. Also, the thickness of the yarn and the needle will influence the size of the outcome, which you can, of course, intentionally take advantage of.

Size

Here are the size specifications for the crocheted Amigurumi Moose. The height was measured while standing without antlers. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.

Needle Size	Yardage	Size
Crochet Hook 12	137 yds / 1.75 oz	6 1/5 inch
Crochet Hook 11	120 yds / 1.75 oz	?
Crochet Hook 9 or 10	93 yds / 1.75 oz	?

Note! If you want to change the size, you can simply use a thicker or thinner yarn with a suitable needle size. Simply doubling the rounds, rows, and stitches, on the other hand, will only result in an uneven outcome.

Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Crochet Moose “Sören”

For the sweet Amigurumi Crochet Moose, we first create the head and body, followed by arms, legs, snout, tail, antlers, and ears. Afterward, all parts are sewn together, individual parts are shaped, and embroideries are applied.

Head for Crochet Moose (1x)

The head for the Crochet Moose is crocheted from top to bottom in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). The head is filled and stuffed neatly. The remaining yarn end will be needed later to sew the head all around to a body.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• brown:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 6th round:
  • double every 5th stitch
  • = 36 stitches
• 7th round:
  • double every 6th stitch
  • = 42 stitches
• 8th round:
  • double every 7th stitch
  • = 48 stitches
• 9th round:
  • double every 8th stitch
  • = 54 stitches
• 10th round:
  • double every 9th stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• 11th – 21st round:
  • (= 11 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 60 stitches
• attach safety eyes, position:
  • after the 19th round
  • 2 stitches distance
• 22nd round:
  • crochet together every 9th and 10th stitch
  • = 54 stitches
• 23rd round:
  • crochet together every 8th and 9th stitch
  • = 48 stitches
• 24th round:
  • crochet together every 7th and 8th stitch
  • = 42 stitches
• 25th round:
  • crochet together every 6th and 7th stitch
  • = 36 stitches
• 26th round:
  • crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 27th round:
  • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 28th round:
  • crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• 29th round:
  • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Body for Crochet Moose (1x)

The body for the Crochet Moose is crocheted from bottom to top in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). The head and body will later be sewn together with the openings facing each other.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• brown:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 6th – 11th round:
  • (= 6 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 12th round:
  • crochet together every 9th and 10th stitch
  • = 27 stitches
• 13th round:
  • crochet together every 8th and 9th stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 14th round:
  • crochet together every 7th and 8th stitch
  • = 21 stitches
• 15th round:
  • crochet together every 6th and 7th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 16th round:
  • crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 17th round:
  • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 18th round:
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• cut the thread, pull off the loop

Ears for Crochet Moose (2x)

Next, let’s crochet the ears for the Crochet Moose. We also crochet the ears from top to bottom in spiral rounds. However, the ears are not filled so that they can later be sewn flat with the yarn end to the sides of the head.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• brown:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 8 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 10 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 5th stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 5th – 8th round:
  • (= 4 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 9th round:
  • crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
  • = 6 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Snout for Crochet Moose (1x)

The snout for the Crochet Moose is crocheted from the inside to the outside in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). The snout will later be sewn around the head opening with the yarn end and filled during this process.

Tip: Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Dazu verwendest du einfach die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise.

(Redaktion: Block ersetzen)

• white:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th – 7th round:
  • (= 3 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Tail for Crochet Moose (1x)

The tail for the Crochet Moose is crocheted from tip to base in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). The tail is not filled and will be sewn to the hindquarters later with the remaining yarn end.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• brown:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• 3rd + 4th round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• 5th round:
  • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Arms for Crochet Moose (2x)

The arms for the Crochet Moose are crocheted from fingertips to shoulders in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). Less filling is added to the front part to create flat palms.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• dark brown:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd – 5th round:
  • (= 3 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 6th round:
  • crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• brown:
• 7th – 14th round:
  • (= 8 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• 15th round:
  • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
  • = 6 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Legs for Crochet Moose (2x)

The legs for the Crochet Moose are crocheted from toes to hips in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). The feet are filled generously, while the legs remain slightly looser to allow for easy movement later.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• dark brown:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th round:
  • into the back loop only:
    • every stitch one stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 6th round:
  • crochet together every 11th and 12th stitch
  • = 22 stitches
• 7th round:
  • crochet together every 10th and 11th stitch
  • = 20 stitches
• 8th round:
  • crochet together every 9th and 10th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 9th round:
  • crochet together every 8th and 9th stitch
  • = 16 stitches
• 10th round:
  • crochet together every 7th and 8th stitch
  • = 14 stitches
• 11th round:
  • crochet together every 6th and 7th stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• brown:
• 12th – 16th round:
  • (= 5 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• 17th round:
  • crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
  • = 6 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Antlers for Crochet Moose (2x)

The antlers for the Crochet Moose are crocheted in two parts, which will later be sewn onto the head. Both parts are crocheted from top to bottom in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). It is important to carefully follow the increases and decreases to achieve the correct shape.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• beige:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th + 6th round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 7th round:
  • 9x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 9x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 21 stitches
• 8th round:
  • 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 7x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 9th round:
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 10th round:
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 11th round:
  • 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • 7x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 21 stitches
• 12th + 13th round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 21 stitches
• 14th round:
  • 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 7x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 15th round:
  • 7x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 5x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 16th round:
  • 5x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 4x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 17th round:
  • 5x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
  • 4x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 18th + 19th round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 20th round:
  • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 21st round:
  • 5x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
  • 1x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• 22nd – 24th round:
  • (= 3 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 9 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Moose Assembly

After crocheting all the parts, the puzzle can be completed. Before you start, be sure to pin the crocheted moose with pins to find the correct positions. This makes sewing them together easier, and you can easily make corrections.

Sew Head to Body

First, sew the head and body together with the openings facing each other. Use the long yarn end from the head and work around the two openings. If you’ve never done this before, the pattern for sewing together open parts may be helpful.

Sew Snout to Head

Now you can sew the snout around the head with the yarn end. It is very helpful if it is first pinned firmly with pins, and you gradually remove them. Just before you complete the round, fill and stuff the snout well.

Sew Ears to Head

Then the ears can be sewn to the head. They are not filled, only flat folded. The open side is placed horizontally on the 10th round on each side of the head. Both ears, when viewed from above, form a line parallel to the eyes.

Sew Arms and Legs

Next, you can sew the arms just below the head. Either sew them flat folded horizontally or with movable thread joints, as described in the pattern for thread joints. The legs are sewn horizontally folded to the middle of the underside in a line.

Sew Antlers to Head

Afterward, you can tackle the horns of the antlers. They sit on the head in a line parallel to the eyes, between the ears but slightly offset towards the face. Ensure that the branches of the antlers point inward and only slightly backward. Sew the filled horns with the remaining yarn end around the head, so they stand upright.

Sew Tail to Body

Now, sew the tail to the center of the back. Fold the open end flat and sew it horizontally around the 6th round. The moose’s tail serves as a counterbalance for sitting, so choose the placement carefully.

Embroider Eyebrows

Finally, embroider the eyebrows with black embroidery or tapestry yarn. They sit 7 or 8 rounds above the eyes and slant inward.

Embroider a Nose

For the nose, embroider two straight lines above and on either side of the 3rd round of the snout. You can use brown tapestry yarn or the yarn from the body. By the way, moose really have only two large, slit-like nostrils like horses or cows and not a button nose!

Shape Belly Button

Next, use yarn to pull in the belly button. Horizontally stitch two stitches at the appropriate spot in the front and pull them on the backside around two stitches below the tail.

Shape Hooves

Afterward, tie off both feet in the front center to create the two characteristic hooves on each foot.

Done!

Now, I congratulate you on your own moose. Have fun until Christmas, and I wish you a lovely holiday season! Oh, and keep Sören away from the Christmas decorations. It took hours to untangle the mess he created! 😉

Vielleicht hast du aber auch Lust die anderen Amigurumis der Naminja Serie nachzuarbeiten.