Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Zombie “Ouka”

Crocheting this adorable Zombie becomes a breeze even for beginners with this easy crochet pattern. The little zombie girl, Ouka, is simply enchanting and makes the perfect guest for any Halloween party or for those who enjoy a bit of spookiness.

Introduction: Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Zombie “Ouka”

Before we dive into crocheting the Amigurumi Zombie, it is crucial to prepare thoroughly. Hence, you will find detailed information about the required prerequisites, materials, and size here. Additional help can be found through the corresponding links.

Attention! Amigurumis are very cute and, therefore, not only popular among adults. Children often see them as toys, so you should be especially careful. Amigurumis that are not intended for play should be kept out of the reach of children. If an Amigurumi is meant to be played with by children, you should strictly adhere to the guidelines for toys. If you plan to give away or sell Amigurumis (license for sellers), you must strictly adhere to the legal requirements for toys and display the required CE marking.

Prerequisites

To effortlessly execute this crochet pattern for the Amigurumi Zombie, you should already be familiar with the following crochet techniques. If you haven’t mastered them yet, comprehensive tutorials are available here for quick learning.

• Chain Stitches
• Colour Change
• Decreases
• Double Crochet Stitches (UK!)
• Half Treble Crochet Stitches (UK!)
• Increases
• Loops of a Stitch
• Magic Ring
• Slip Stitches
• Spiral Rounds
• Turning Chain Stitches

Note! By offsetting regular increases and decreases, they become almost invisible. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you.

Note! Using a special technique for invisible decreases makes them nearly invisible. Although this technique requires a bit of practice, it’s worth giving it a try.

Supplies

The following materials were used to crochet the Amigurumi Zombie. The Amigurumi Zombie can also be crocheted with a different yarn if an appropriate hook size is used. Using materials as similar as possible will help achieve an identical result. The list below includes all necessary tools and supplies, in addition to the materials.

Note! I have used safety eyes here. If you have never attached safety eyes before, you can also find detailed instructions on how to attach safety eyes here. In addition to a wide selection of other safety eyes, there are also numerous alternatives for amigurumi eyes. Simply use the eyes that you like best.

Note! The specified yarn was used for the example shown here. In principle, you can use any yarn and an appropriate needle size. However, the quality of the material also affects the quality of the result, so you should avoid cutting corners in the wrong place. Also, the thickness of the yarn and the needle will influence the size of the outcome, which you can, of course, intentionally take advantage of.

Size

Here are the size specifications for the crocheted Amigurumi Zombie. The height was measured standing without hair. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.

Needle Size	Yardage	Size
Crochet Hook 12	137 yds / 1.75 oz	2 2/5 inch
Crochet Hook 11	120 yds / 1.75 oz	3 inches
Crochet Hook 9 or 10	93 yds / 1.75 oz	?

Note! If you want to change the size, you can simply use a thicker or thinner yarn with a suitable needle size. Simply doubling the rounds, rows, and stitches, on the other hand, will only result in an uneven outcome.

Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Zombie “Ouka”

For the little zombie, we first crochet the head and body in one go from top to bottom in spiral rounds, incorporating some hair along the way. Then, we crochet the arms and legs, and finally, you can assemble all the parts. The finishing touches include adding details like blood and scars.

Prepare Hair for Zombie (2x)

If your zombie is going to have a nice hairstyle, we need to prepare some hair first. To do this, cut two strands of black yarn, each about 10 cm long, consisting of about 4 threads. Now tie a knot in the middle of each strand and set aside the hair for later.

Crochet Head for Zombie (1x)

For the zombie, we first crochet the head and body in one go from top to bottom in spiral rounds. Since the body is crocheted directly onto the head, do not cut the yarn when the head is finished.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• green:
• 1st round:
  • magic ring
  • into the magic ring:
    • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
  • = 6 stitches
• 2nd round:
  • double every stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 3rd round:
  • double every 2nd stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 4th round:
  • double every 3rd stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 5th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 6th – 12th Round:
  • (= 7 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 30 stitches
• 13th round:
  • into the back loop only:
    • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• attach safety eyes, position:
  • after the 9th round
  • 5 stitches distance

Now you can grab the prepared hair. The hair is placed on each side of the head in a line parallel to the eyes after the 3rd round. You must orient yourself to the eyes to ensure that the hair sits in the right places later. Insert a crochet hook from the outside to the inside through a stitch, and pull all ends of a strand out on both sides. If you’ve done everything correctly, only the knot remains inside the head. Repeat this step on the other side of the head for the second strand. The hair is probably still too long, preventing it from slipping back inside for now. Just keep crocheting when you’re ready!

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• 14th round:
  • crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 15th round:
  • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• fill and stuff completely
• do NOT cut yarn, continue with:
  • body

Crochet Body for Zombie (1x)

As described earlier, we now crochet the body directly onto the head. If you accidentally cut the yarn, you can simply continue as if starting with a new color.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

• 16th round:
  • double every 4th stitch
  • = 15 stitches
• 17th round:
  • double every 5th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• lavender:
• 18th round:
  • double every 6th stitch
  • = 21 stitches
• 19th round:
  • double every 7th stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 20th – 23rd Round:
  • (= 2 rounds)
  • every stitch one stitch
  • = 24 stitches
• 24th round:
  • into the back loop only:
    • crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
  • = 18 stitches
• 25th round:
  • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
  • = 12 stitches
• 26th round:
  • crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
  • = 6 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, close the remaining opening, secure and weave in the yarn end

Crochet Arms for Zombie (2x)

After the head and body are finished, we crochet two arms for the zombie. The arms are crocheted in just 2 rows back and forth.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• green:
• 1st row:
  • 4 chain stitches
  • 2 turning chain stitches
  • = 4 stitches
• 2nd row:
  • into one stitch:
    • 1 half treble crochet stitch (UK!)
    • 2 turning chain stitches
    • 1 slip stitch
  • 3x one slip stitch into one stitch
  • = 5 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Legs for Zombie (2x)

Next, we have two legs so your zombie can wander around diligently. They are crocheted almost the same as the arms. Be cautious, though, as the emphasis is on “almost.”

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

• green:
• 1st row:
  • 4 chain stitches
  • 2 turning chain stitches
  • = 4 stitches
• 2nd row:
  • into one stitch:
    • 2 half treble crochet stitches (UK!)
    • 2 turning chain stitches
    • 1 slip stitch
  • 3x one slip stitch into one stitch
  • = 6 stitches
• cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Finish Minimee Zombie

Now you’ve crocheted all the parts. That was faster than expected. Next, pin your zombie together with pins. This way, you can see if everything is in the right place and make any changes easily.

Attach Arms and Legs

Now, attach the arms and legs to the body of the zombie. The arms are positioned with a distance of 4 stitches after the 16th round, and the legs are attached below the small stitch edge with only 3 stitches of space after the 23rd round. It will help if you first find the center using the eyes.

Then, you can attach the arms and legs on each side. It is more important to maintain the same distance from the center than to hit the exact stitch count. Additionally, the pattern for attaching small Amigurumi parts will be a great help if you haven’t done that before.

Style Hair

Now it’s time to give the zombie a little tug on the hair to make sure it sits well. Afterward, you can trim it to the desired length. Don’t be too hasty, though, as zombie hair doesn’t grow back very well.

Create Details

Finally, you can enhance your zombie a bit. I first drew some red cheeks and then added some bloody spots. After the blood dried, I added two scars, one above the left eye and the other on the back of the head, first with a long and then with 3 short cross stitches using black yarn. My zombie now has 2 scars, each above the left eye and on the right side of the back of the head.

Done!

Spooky! Your personalized Amigurumi Zombie is ready to roam around and stretch its little arms.

To complement the zombie girl, you can also crochet the Zombie Boy. Aren’t they a wonderfully eerie pair?

If you’re up for it, you might want to crochet the other amigurumis from the Minimee series; just take a look at the patterns.