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Amigurumi – Crochet Drake “Darius”

Crocheting an Amigurumi Crochet Drake is easy with this detailed crochet pattern. The crocheted drake “Darius” captivates with its compact and simple form. The large eyes invite cuddling and playing, and the Amigurumi Drake fills an adult’s hand completely.

Content

Introduction: Amigurumi – Crochet Drake “Darius”

Before starting to crochet the Amigurumi Drake Darius, it is crucial to prepare well. In the following sections, you will learn more about the required prerequisites, materials, and size. In addition, you will find help through the respective additional links.

Attention! Amigurumis are very cute and, therefore, not only popular among adults. Children often see them as toys, so you should be especially careful. Amigurumis that are not intended for play should be kept out of the reach of children. If an Amigurumi is meant to be played with by children, you should strictly adhere to the guidelines for toys. If you plan to give away or sell Amigurumis (license for sellers), you must strictly adhere to the legal requirements for toys and display the required CE marking.

Prerequisites

To implement this crochet pattern for the Amigurumi Drake smoothly, you should already be familiar with the following crochet techniques. If you do not master all of them yet, you will find comprehensive tutorials here to learn them.

  • Chain Stitches
  • Decreases
  • Double Crochet Stitches (UK!)
  • Half Treble Crochet Stitches (UK!)
  • Increases
  • Loops of a Stitch
  • Magic Ring
  • Slip Stitches
  • Spiral Rounds
  • Turning Chain Stitches

Note! By offsetting regular increases and decreases, they become almost invisible. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you.

Note! Using a special technique for invisible decreases makes them nearly invisible. Although this technique requires a bit of practice, it’s worth giving it a try.

Supplies

The depicted Amigurumi Drake was made using the following materials. The Amigurumi Drake can also be crocheted with a different yarn, using an appropriate needle size. If you expect an identical result, you should try to use exactly the shown materials. Here you will also find an enumeration of the necessary tools and supplies.

Filling

For filling, I used synthetic filling made of 100% polyester. However, there are numerous alternatives for filling material. If you’ve run out of filling, I’ve prepared a refill for you here.

Pins

You’ll also need a few pins. The more colorful your collection, the better. If you need more, I’ve found something for you.

Safety Eyes

I used 2 safety eyes with a diameter of 1/2 inches. The eyes are completely black. However, there are countless alternatives for amigurumi eyes. You might prefer other safety eyes as well.

Scissors – any

You’ll need any scissors. It’s best to use your most beautiful scissors because it brings you joy. If you don’t have really nice scissors, I’ve picked out some lovely ones for you.

Wool Needle

You’ll need a wool needle with a blunt tip. The thickness of the wool needle should match the thickness of your yarn. You might like the set of wool needles I’ve picked out for you.

Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 208 – sonne (sonnengelb)

I used yarn in the shade Sun. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.

Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 241 – golfgrün (blaugrün)

I used yarn in the shade Golf Green. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.

Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 254 – taupe (graubraun)

I used yarn in the shade Taupe. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.

Note! The specified yarn was used for the example shown here. In principle, you can use any yarn and an appropriate needle size. However, the quality of the material also affects the quality of the result, so you should avoid cutting corners in the wrong place. Also, the thickness of the yarn and the needle will influence the size of the outcome, which you can, of course, intentionally take advantage of.

Note! I have used safety eyes here. If you have never attached safety eyes before, you can also find detailed instructions on how to attach safety eyes here. In addition to a wide selection of other safety eyes, there are also numerous alternatives for amigurumi eyes. Simply use the eyes that you like best.

Size

Here are the size specifications for the crocheted drake. The height was measured while sitting. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.

Needle SizeYardageSize
Crochet Hook 12137 yds / 1.75 oz6 inches
Crochet Hook 11120 yds / 1.75 oz?
Crochet Hook 9 or 1093 yds / 1.75 oz?

Note! If you want to change the size, you can simply use a thicker or thinner yarn with a suitable needle size. Simply doubling the rounds, rows, and stitches, on the other hand, will only result in an uneven outcome.

Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Crochet Drake “Darius”

For the Amigurumi Crochet Drake, we first crochet the head, body, wings, beak, and legs. Afterward, all parts are sewn together, and then your crocheted drake is already finished.

Crochet Drake Head (1x)

The head for the Crochet Drake is crocheted from top to bottom with double crochet stitches (UK!) in spiral rounds. The head receives safety eyes, is filled and stuffed, but not completely closed.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

  • blue-green:
  • 1st round:
    • magic ring
    • into the magic ring:
      • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
    • = 6 stitches
  • 2nd round:
    • double every stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 3rd round:
    • double every 2nd stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 4th round:
    • double every 3rd stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • 5th round:
    • double every 4th stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • 6th round:
    • double every 5th stitch
    • = 36 stitches
  • 7th round:
    • double every 6th stitch
    • = 42 stitches
  • 8th round:
    • double every 7th stitch
    • = 48 stitches
  • 9th round:
    • double every 8th stitch
    • = 54 stitches
  • 10th round:
    • double every 9th stitch
    • = 60 stitches
  • 11th round:
    • double every 60th stitch
    • = 61 stitches
  • 12th round:
    • double every 61st stitch
    • = 62 stitches
  • 13th round:
    • double every 62nd stitch
    • = 63 stitches
  • 14th round:
    • double every 63rd stitch
    • = 64 stitches
  • 15th round:
    • double every 64th stitch
    • = 65 stitches
  • 16th round:
    • double every 65th stitch
    • = 66 stitches
  • 17th round:
    • double every 66th stitch
    • = 67 stitches
  • 18th round:
    • double every 67th stitch
    • = 68 stitches
  • 19th round:
    • double every 68th stitch
    • = 69 stitches
  • 20th round:
    • double every 69th stitch
    • = 70 stitches
  • 21st round:
    • double every 70th stitch
    • = 71 stitches
  • 22nd round:
    • double every 71st stitch
    • = 72 stitches
  • 23rd – 25th round:
    • (= 3 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 72 stitches
  • attach safety eyes, position:
    • after the 24th round
    • 14 stitches distance
  • 26th round:
    • crochet together every 11th and 12th stitch
    • = 66 stitches
  • 27th round:
    • crochet together every 10th and 11th stitch
    • = 60 stitches
  • 28th round:
    • crochet together every 9th and 10th stitch
    • = 54 stitches
  • 29th round:
    • crochet together every 8th and 9th stitch
    • = 48 stitches
  • 30th round:
    • crochet together every 7th and 8th stitch
    • = 42 stitches
  • 31st round:
    • crochet together every 6th and 7th stitch
    • = 36 stitches
  • white:
  • 32nd round:
    • crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • 33rd round:
    • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • fill and stuff completely
  • cut the thread, pull off the loop

Crochet Drake Body (1x)

The body for the Crochet Drake is crocheted from bottom to top in spiral rounds with double crochet stitches (UK!) and half double crochet stitches. The body is fully filled and stuffed, but not completely closed, and is later sewn to the head with the thread end and opening.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

  • grey-brown:
  • 1st round:
    • magic ring
    • into the magic ring:
      • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
    • = 6 stitches
  • 2nd round:
    • double every stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 3rd round:
    • double every 2nd stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 4th round:
    • double every 3rd stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • 5th round:
    • double every 4th stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • 6th round:
    • double every 5th stitch
    • = 36 stitches
  • 7th round:
    • double every 6th stitch
    • = 42 stitches
  • 8th round:
    • double every 7th stitch
    • = 48 stitches
  • 9th round:
    • double every 8th stitch
    • = 54 stitches
  • 10th round:
    • double every 9th stitch
    • = 60 stitches
  • 11th round:
    • 45x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • repeat 2x:
      • 1x one half treble crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
      • 1x two half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • repeat 2x:
      • 1x two half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
      • 1x one half treble crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • 5x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • = 66 stitches
  • 12th – 16th round:
    • (= 5 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 66 stitches
  • 17th round:
    • 52x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
    • 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • = 63 stitches
  • 18th round:
    • 51x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
    • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • = 60 stitches
  • 19th + 20th round:
    • (= 2 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 60 stitches
  • 21st round:
    • crochet together every 19th and 20th stitch
    • = 57 stitches
  • 22nd round:
    • crochet together every 18th and 19th stitch
    • = 54 stitches
  • 23rd round:
    • crochet together every 17th and 18th stitch
    • = 51 stitches
  • 24th round:
    • crochet together every 16th and 17th stitch
    • = 48 stitches
  • 25th round:
    • crochet together every 15th and 16th stitch
    • = 45 stitches
  • 26th round:
    • crochet together every 14th and 15th stitch
    • = 42 stitches
  • 27th round:
    • crochet together every 13th and 14th stitch
    • = 39 stitches
  • 28th round:
    • crochet together every 12th and 13th stitch
    • = 36 stitches
  • white:
  • 29th round:
    • crochet together every 11th and 12th stitch
    • = 33 stitches
  • 30th round:
    • crochet together every 10th and 11th stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • 31st round:
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • fill and stuff completely
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Drake Wings (2x)

The wings for the Crochet Drake are crocheted from tip to base in spiral rounds with double crochet stitches (UK!). The wings are not filled, but folded flat and later sewn to the body with the thread end.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

  • grey-brown:
  • 1st round:
    • magic ring
    • into the magic ring:
      • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
    • = 6 stitches
  • 2nd round:
    • double every 2nd stitch
    • = 9 stitches
  • 3rd round:
    • double every 3rd stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 4th round:
    • double every 4th stitch
    • = 15 stitches
  • 5th round:
    • double every 5th stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 6th – 12th round:
    • (= 7 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 13th round:
    • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 14th round:
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Drake Beak (1x)

The beak for the Crochet Drake is crocheted from tip to base in spiral rounds with double crochet stitches (UK!). The beak is not filled but only folded flat and later sewn to the head with the thread end.

Tip: Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Dazu verwendest du einfach die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise.

(Redaktion: Block ersetzen)

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

  • yellow:
  • 1st round:
    • magic ring
    • into the magic ring:
      • 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
    • = 6 stitches
  • 2nd round:
    • double every stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 3rd round:
    • double every 2nd stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 4th + 5th round:
    • (= 2 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 6th round:
    • 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
    • 2x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • into the front loop only:
      • 1x three half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
      • 1x one slip stitch into one stitch
      • 1x three half treble crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • 2x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
    • 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x one slip stitch into one stitch
    • = 16 stitches
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Crochet Legs (2x)

The legs for the Crochet Drake are crocheted from toe to hip with double crochet stitches (UK!) in spiral rounds. The legs are not filled but folded flat and later sewn to the body with the thread end.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

  • yellow:
  • 1st row:
    • 8 chain stitches
    • 1 turning chain stitch
    • = 8 stitches
  • 2nd round:
    • 7x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x three double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • turn
    • 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
    • 1x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 3rd – 5th round:
    • (= 3 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 6th round:
    • crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
    • = 15 stitches
  • 7th round:
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 15 stitches
  • 8th round:
    • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 9th round:
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 10th round:
    • crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
    • = 6 stitches
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing

Finish Amigurumi Drake

Once all pieces are finished crocheting, you can sew your Amigurumi drake together. However, it is helpful to put the items together with pins. So you see if the positions are correct and can still easily make changes.

Sew Head to Body

First, we sew the head all around to the body. Both openings should face each other. The pointed side of the body is the center of the back, and the midpoint between the eyes sits on the front. You can orient yourself with the pattern for sewing open parts together.

Sew Beak to Head

Then we sew the beak with the thread end around to the head. For this, you put him around once with pins. He sits exactly in the middle between the eyes, with the upper edge sitting at a height with the upper edge of the eyes. Now you can sew the beak piece by piece. Finally, you secure the thread end inside.

Sew Wings to Body

Then the wings are folded flat and sewn with the thread ends with the opening to the body. They sit horizontally around the 27th round and have 14 stitches distance on the front. When the wings are sewn shut, the thread ends are secured inside the body.

Sew Legs to Body

Now we sew the legs with the flat-folded opening to the bottom of the body. For this, we use the thread ends and secure them later inside the legs. The legs sit around the 9th round and have a 4-stitch distance in the middle.

Done!

Well done! Your Amigurumi Drake is beaming with pride. It would surely appreciate it if you show off with a picture of him. You can simply leave us a comment with your photo!

Wenn dir diese Anleitung Freude bereitet hat, dann gefallen dir vielleicht auch die anderen Amigurumis der Onafu Serie. Schau dir doch mal die folgenden Anleitungen an!

Wenn du gern die neusten Neuigkeiten erfahren möchtest, kannst du unseren niedlichen Amigurumi Spatz Tweepy fragen.

Wusstest du eigentlich, dass manchmal die kleine Rudolphina den Schlitten vom Weihnachtsmann zieht? Du kannst das Amigurumi Rentier einfach selbst häkeln.

Hast du schon das niedlich Amigurumi Entenküken gehäkelt. Nakinaknak plappert immer fröhlich vor sich hin und würde gern jemanden mit seinem geschnatter genauso fröhlich machen.

Unser prächtiger Amigrumi Erpel Darius wartet nur darauf, dich mit seinem prächtigen Federkleid beeindrucken zu dürfen.

Vielen Dank für deinen Besuch!

Hast du das Ribbelmonster schon in deinen Lesezeichen abgelegt?


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