With this crochet pattern, you can crochet Silvianus Sarcus, the Amigurumi Crochet Patch Gnome. Silvianus Sarcus is a cute bearded fellow who prefers to wear his hat on his chubby nose. What could be under his hat? The crocheted patch gnome is a great decoration but also a cute stuffed animal for children.







Inhalt
Introduction: Amigurumi – Crochet Patch Gnome “Silvianus Sarcus”
Before you start crocheting the Amigurumi Patch Gnome, it’s advisable to prepare a bit. Here you will find all necessary information about prerequisites, materials, and size that you need. If you need help, you can easily follow the respective additional links.

Achtung! Amigurumis sind sehr niedlich und deshalb nicht nur bei Erwachsenen sehr beliebt. Von Kindern werden sie gern als Spielzeug betrachtet, weshalb du besonders vorsichtig sein solltest. Amigurumis, die nicht bespielt werden sollen, sollten unbedingt außerhalb der Reichweite von Kindern aufbewahrt werden. Soll ein Amigurumi von Kindern bespielt werden, solltest du unbedingt die Vorgaben für Spielzeug einhalten. Wenn du die Amigurumis weitergeben oder verkaufen möchtest (Lizenz für Verkäufer), dann musst du zwingend die gesetzlichen Vorgaben für Spielzeug beachten und die benötigte CE-Kennzeichnung ausweisen.
Prerequisites
You should already be familiar with the following techniques so that you can easily follow this crochet pattern for the Amigurumi Patch Gnome. You will also find some very detailed tutorials here to learn the individual crochet techniques.
- Chain Stitches
- Decreases
- Double Crochet Stitches (UK!)
- Increases
- Loops of a Stitch
- Magic Ring
- Slip Stitches
- Spiral Rounds
- Turning Chain Stitches
Hinweis! Indem du regelmäßige Zunahmen und Abnahmen versetzt werden diese fast unsichtbar. Du erkennst regelmäßige Zunahmen an der Formulierung “jede … Masche verdoppeln” und regelmäßige Abnahmen an der Formulierung “jede … und … Masche zusammen häkeln”. Dabei hilft dir vielleicht auch die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise.
Hinweis! Mit einer besonderen Technik für unsichtbare Abnahmen sind diese kaum noch zu sehen. Auch wenn diese Technik ein wenig Übung erfordert lohnt es sich sie auszuprobieren.
Supplies
The listed materials were used to crochet the Amigurumi Patch Gnome. You can also crochet the Amigurumi Patch Gnome with a different yarn if you use an appropriately matching needle size. To achieve a comparable result, I recommend using materials that are as similar as possible. In the following list, you will find, in addition to the materials, all the necessary tools and supplies.
Crochet Hook
You will need a crochet hook with a size of 12 (british). For converting to other sizes, the crochet hook size converter will help you. I have selected some great crochet hooks for you here.
Darning Yarn
I have used darning yarn in the shade of black here. If you cannot find a suitable darning yarn in your supplies, I have already selected some for you.
Filling
For filling, I used plastic granules with a diameter of about 1/6 inches. However, there are numerous alternatives for filling material. If you’ve run out of filling, I’ve prepared a refill for you here.
Filling
For filling, I used synthetic filling made of 100% polyester. However, there are numerous alternatives for filling material. If you’ve run out of filling, I’ve prepared a refill for you here.
Pins
You’ll also need a few pins. The more colorful your collection, the better. If you need more, I’ve found something for you.
Scissors – any
You’ll need any scissors. It’s best to use your most beautiful scissors because it brings you joy. If you don’t have really nice scissors, I’ve picked out some lovely ones for you.
Wool Needle
You’ll need a wool needle with a blunt tip. The thickness of the wool needle should match the thickness of your yarn. You might like the set of wool needles I’ve picked out for you.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 106 – weiß
I used yarn in the shade White. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 263 – softaprikot (hautfarbe)
I used yarn in the shade Soft Apricot. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 425 – burgund (burgunderrot)
I used yarn in the shade Burgundy. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Merino Extrafine 120
I used yarn in the shade Grey. The material is 100% wool. The yardage is 131 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Hinweis! In dieser Anleitung wird ein Farbton als Hautfarbe verwendet. Die Wahl des Farbtones habe ich entsprechend meines persönlichen Geschmackes getroffen. Aber: Die Welt ist bunt! Es gibt viel andere mögliche Hautfarben, die du verwenden kannst. Bitte passe die Auswahl des Garns einfach an deinen persönlichen Geschmack an!
Hinweis! Das hier angegebene Garn habe ich für das gezeigte Beispiel verwendet. Prinzipiell kannst du jedes beliebige Garn und eine passende Nadelstärke verwenden. Allerdings beeinflusst die Materialqualität auch die Qualität des Resultats, weshalb du tunlichst nicht an der falschen Stelle sparen solltest. Außerdem beeinflussen die Stärke des Garns und der Nadel auch die Größe des Ergebnisses, was du natürlich bewusst ausnutzen kannst.
Size
Here are the size specifications for the Patch Gnome. The height was measured standing without a hat. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.
| Needle Size | Yardage | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Crochet Hook 12 | 137 yds / 1.75 oz | 4 2/5 inch |
| Crochet Hook 11 | 120 yds / 1.75 oz | ? |
| Crochet Hook 9 or 10 | 93 yds / 1.75 oz | ? |
Hinweis! Wenn du die Größe verändern möchtest, kannst du einfach ein dickeres oder dünneres Garn mit einer passenden Nadelstärke verwenden. Das schlichte Verdoppeln der Runden, Reihen und Maschen führt dagegen nur zu einem unförmigen Ergebnis.
Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Crochet Patch Gnome “Silvianus Sarcus”

For the Amigurumi Crochet Patch Gnome, we first crochet the body and head in one piece and then a chubby nose, long arms, small feet, a long pointed hat, and a few patches. After that, all parts are sewn together, and the beard and hair are attached, as well as eyes and the zigzag line are embroidered, and a bell is sewn on.
Crochet Body (1x)

Crochet the body for the Patch Gnome from the bottom up in spiral rounds using only double crochet stitches (UK!). Once you finish the body, proceed to crochet the head immediately.
Hinweis! Dein Amigurumi kann nur schlecht selbständig sitzen, wenn es vollständig mit einer gleichmäßig leichten Füllung gefüllt ist. Um das zu verbessern, kannst du einen entsprechenden Schwerpunkt einarbeiten. Dazu füllst du den Boden des Körpers einfach mit etwas Kunststoffgranulat auf, um den Körper ein wenig zu beschweren. So kann dein Amigurumi viel besser selbständig sitzen.
Hinweis! Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen und regelmäßigen Abnahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Du erkennst regelmäßige Zunahmen an der Formulierung “jede … Masche verdoppeln” und regelmäßige Abnahmen an der Formulierung “jede … und … Masche zusammen häkeln”. Dabei hilft dir vielleicht auch die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise. Außerdem kannst du hier auch noch eine besondere Häkeltechnik für unsichtbare Abnahmen anwenden.
- grey:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 3rd round:
- double every 2nd stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 4th round:
- double every 3rd stitch
- = 24 stitches
- 5th round:
- double every 4th stitch
- = 30 stitches
- 6th round:
- double every 5th stitch
- = 36 stitches
- 7th round:
- double every 6th stitch
- = 42 stitches
- 8th round:
- double every 7th stitch
- = 48 stitches
- 9th round:
- double every 8th stitch
- = 54 stitches
- 10th round:
- double every 9th stitch
- = 60 stitches
- 11th – 21st round:
- (= 11 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 60 stitches
- 22nd round:
- crochet together every 19th and 20th stitch
- = 57 stitches
- 23rd round:
- crochet together every 18th and 19th stitch
- = 54 stitches
- 24th round:
- crochet together every 17th and 18th stitch
- = 51 stitches
- 25th round:
- crochet together every 16th and 17th stitch
- = 48 stitches
- 26th round:
- crochet together every 15th and 16th stitch
- = 45 stitches
- 27th round:
- crochet together every 14th and 15th stitch
- = 42 stitches
- 28th round:
- every stitch one stitch
- = 42 stitches
- do NOT cut yarn, continue with:
- Head
Crochet Head (1x)
The head for the Crochet Patch Gnome is crocheted directly onto the body and also from bottom to top in spiral rounds with exclusively double crochet stitches (UK!).
Hinweis! Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Abnahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Du erkennst regelmäßige Abnahmen an der Formulierung “jede … und … Masche zusammen häkeln”. Dabei hilft dir vielleicht auch die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise. Außerdem kannst du hier auch noch eine besondere Häkeltechnik für unsichtbare Abnahmen anwenden.
- skin-coloured:
- 29th round:
- into the back loop only:
- every stitch one stitch
- = 42 stitches
- into the back loop only:
- 30th – 36th round:
- (= 7 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 42 stitches
- 37th round:
- crochet together every 6th and 7th stitch
- = 36 stitches
- 38th round:
- crochet together every 5th and 6th stitch
- = 30 stitches
- 39th round:
- crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
- = 24 stitches
- fill and stuff completely
- 40th round:
- crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 41st round:
- crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 42nd round:
- crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
- = 6 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, close the remaining opening, secure and weave in the yarn end
Crochet Nose (1x)

The nose for the Crochet Patch Gnome is crocheted from the tip to the base in spiral rounds with exclusively double crochet stitches (UK!).
Hinweis! Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen und regelmäßigen Abnahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Du erkennst regelmäßige Zunahmen an der Formulierung “jede … Masche verdoppeln” und regelmäßige Abnahmen an der Formulierung “jede … und … Masche zusammen häkeln”. Dabei hilft dir vielleicht auch die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise. Außerdem kannst du hier auch noch eine besondere Häkeltechnik für unsichtbare Abnahmen anwenden.
- skin-coloured:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 3rd round:
- 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 4th + 5th round:
- (= 2 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 6th round:
- 2x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
- 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
- 1x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- fill and stuff completely
- 7th round:
- crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
- = 12 stitches
- Cut off thread generously, pull a loop, close the remaining opening, DO NOT secure and darn in the end, will be used later for sewing
Crochet Arms (2x):

The arms for the Patch Gnome are crocheted from the fingertips to the shoulder in spiral rounds with exclusively double crochet stitches (UK!). The arms are not filled but only folded flat.
Tip: Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Dazu verwendest du einfach die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise.
(Redaktion: Block ersetzen)
Hinweis! Wenn mehrere möglichst identische Teile entstehen sollen, ist es sinnvoll diese am selben Tag nacheinander zu arbeiten. Bei größeren Teilen ist es sogar empfehlenswert diese gleichzeitig in Etappen zu arbeiten. Wir arbeiten einfach nicht jeden Tag gleich fest oder locker und das kann zu sichtbaren Unterschieden führen.
- skin-coloured:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 3rd – 6th round:
- (= 4 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- grey:
- 7th – 13th round:
- (= 7 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 14th round:
- every stitch one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- beyond the end of the round:
- 1x one slip stitch into one stitch
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Crochet Feet (2x):

The feet for the Crochet Patch Gnome are crocheted from the toe to the base in spiral rounds with exclusively double crochet stitches (UK!).
Hinweis! Wenn mehrere möglichst identische Teile entstehen sollen, ist es sinnvoll diese am selben Tag nacheinander zu arbeiten. Bei größeren Teilen ist es sogar empfehlenswert diese gleichzeitig in Etappen zu arbeiten. Wir arbeiten einfach nicht jeden Tag gleich fest oder locker und das kann zu sichtbaren Unterschieden führen.
Hinweis! Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen und regelmäßigen Abnahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Du erkennst regelmäßige Zunahmen an der Formulierung “jede … Masche verdoppeln” und regelmäßige Abnahmen an der Formulierung “jede … und … Masche zusammen häkeln”. Dabei hilft dir vielleicht auch die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise. Außerdem kannst du hier auch noch eine besondere Häkeltechnik für unsichtbare Abnahmen anwenden.
- red:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 3rd round:
- 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x two double crochet stitches (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 4th – 7th round:
- (= 4 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 8th round:
- 2x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
- 3x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- 3x crochet together two stitches with one double crochet stitch (UK!)
- 1x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- fill and stuff completely
- 9th + 10th round:
- (= 2 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Crochet Pointed Hat (1x):

The pointed hat for the Crochet Patch Gnome is crocheted from the tip to the brim in spiral rounds with exclusively double crochet stitches (UK!).
Tip: Wenn du ein besonders schönes Ergebnis erhalten möchtest, kannst du die regelmäßigen Zunahmen durch Versetzen ein wenig verstecken. Dazu verwendest du einfach die Maschentabelle für Kugeln und Kreise.
(Redaktion: Block ersetzen)
- red:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 double crochet stitches (UK!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every 6th stitch
- = 7 stitches
- 3rd round:
- double every 7th stitch
- = 8 stitches
- 4th round:
- double every 8th stitch
- = 9 stitches
- 5th round:
- double every 9th stitch
- = 10 stitches
- 6th round:
- double every 10th stitch
- = 11 stitches
- 7th round:
- double every 11th stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 8th round:
- double every 12th stitch
- = 13 stitches
- 9th round:
- double every 13th stitch
- = 14 stitches
- 10th round:
- double every 14th stitch
- = 15 stitches
- 11th round:
- double every 15th stitch
- = 16 stitches
- 12th round:
- double every 16th stitch
- = 17 stitches
- 13th round:
- double every 17th stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 14th round:
- double every 18th stitch
- = 19 stitches
- 15th round:
- double every 19th stitch
- = 20 stitches
- 16th round:
- double every 20th stitch
- = 21 stitches
- 17th round:
- double every 21st stitch
- = 22 stitches
- 18th round:
- double every 22nd stitch
- = 23 stitches
- 19th round:
- double every 23rd stitch
- = 24 stitches
- 20th round:
- double every 24th stitch
- = 25 stitches
- 21st round:
- double every 25th stitch
- = 26 stitches
- 22nd round:
- double every 26th stitch
- = 27 stitches
- 23rd round:
- double every 27th stitch
- = 28 stitches
- 24th round:
- double every 28th stitch
- = 29 stitches
- 25th round:
- double every 29th stitch
- = 30 stitches
- 26th round:
- double every 30th stitch
- = 31 stitches
- 27th round:
- double every 31st stitch
- = 32 stitches
- 28th round:
- double every 32nd stitch
- = 33 stitches
- 29th round:
- double every 33rd stitch
- = 34 stitches
- 30th round:
- double every 34th stitch
- = 35 stitches
- 31st round:
- double every 35th stitch
- = 36 stitches
- 32nd round:
- double every 36th stitch
- = 37 stitches
- 33rd round:
- double every 37th stitch
- = 38 stitches
- 34th round:
- double every 38th stitch
- = 39 stitches
- 35th round:
- double every 39th stitch
- = 40 stitches
- 36th round:
- double every 40th stitch
- = 41 stitches
- 37th round:
- double every 41st stitch
- = 42 stitches
- 38th round:
- double every 42nd stitch
- = 43 stitches
- 39th round:
- double every 43rd stitch
- = 44 stitches
- 40th round:
- double every 44th stitch
- = 45 stitches
- 41st round:
- double every 45th stitch
- = 46 stitches
- 42nd round:
- double every 46th stitch
- = 47 stitches
- 43rd round:
- double every 47th stitch
- = 48 stitches
- 44th – 46th round:
- (= 3 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 48 stitches
- 47th round:
- every stitch one stitch
- = 48 stitches
- beyond the end of the round:
- 1x one slip stitch into one stitch
- cut yarn, pull through loop, secure and weave in the yarn end
Crochet Patches (3x)
The patches for the Gnome are crocheted in rows from bottom to top. Leave a long thread end with which you will later sew the patches to the hat.
Crochet Small Patch (1x):

- grey:
- 1st row:
- 6 chain stitches
- 1 turning chain stitch
- 2nd row:
- 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- flip
- = 6 stitches
- 3rd – 7th row:
- (= 5 rows)
- 1 turning chain stitch
- 6x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 6 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Crochet Medium Patch (1x):

- grey:
- 1st row:
- 8 chain stitches
- 1 turning chain stitch
- 2nd row:
- 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- flip
- = 8 stitches
- 3rd – 9th row:
- (= 7 rows)
- 1 turning chain stitch
- 8x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 8 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Crochet Large Patch (1x):

- grey:
- 1st row:
- 10 chain stitches
- 1 turning chain stitch
- 2nd row:
- 10x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- flip
- = 10 stitches
- 3rd – 11th row:
- (= 9 rows)
- 1 turning chain stitch
- 10x one double crochet stitch (UK!) into one stitch
- = 10 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Finish Patch Gnome

Next, you can assemble all parts with pins to see how they fit. Start sewing only when everything is in the right place, and you are satisfied with the result.
Sew Nose onto Head

We start with the nose since it will be our reference point for the center. It sits in the middle of the face and is sewn around between the second and fourth round above the collar. You can use the thread end for this, but make sure that the round transition from the collar on the body is on the back. Finally, secure and darn in the thread end inside the body.
Sew Arms to Body

The arms are sewn flat folded one round below the collar, with the round transition on the inside. First, mark the two middle stitches of the round below the nose. Then sew the arms with the thread ends about 16 stitches apart from each other. These threads are also secured and darned in at the end.

Sew Legs to Body

Next, mark the middle stitch at the lower end of the body to find the center between the legs. Then lay your gnome on its back and sew the legs flat folded with the opening around the 6th round, leaving about 3 stitches between them.

Your gnome is already sewn together.
Attach Beard

Now you can attach the beard, and you might find the pattern for attaching hair helpful. Use threads that are 1 1/2 times the length of the body. Start in the round directly above the collar and work your way around all stitches from arm to arm. Work the two rounds above it in the same way, leaving out the nose. Now, attach the sideburns on the outer sides with 4 stitches in the next round and 3 stitches in the round after that. You can then carefully shape the beard with scissors. First, trim it to the appropriate length if necessary. Then, gradually taper it from the sides to the center until the shape is right.
Attach Hair

Afterward, you can still knot the main hair. Use threads that are just long enough to knot. The main hair starts in the top row of the sideburns and extends up to the last round. Be sure to work from the outer sides to the center at the back of the head because there is a small step in the middle of the back of the head, as the spiral rounds do not meet exactly. Initially, leave out the forehead completely, and then add as much hair as needed until you have a pretty, semi-round high forehead. Now, you can shape the main hair by fanning it between two fingers and cutting it. All main hairs are cut to the same length, resulting in a tousled hairstyle.
Attach Patches

Next, sew the patches onto the hat. Distribute them around with staggered heights. Then, sew them around with the thread ends. Finally, secure and stitch the thread ends inside.
Embroider Eyes

Now it’s time to embroider the eyes with black embroidery yarn above the nose. It’s important that the eyes are above the nose so that they are not visible with the hat on. Simply stitch vertically around two stitches until the eye is the right size, and finally, secure the thread ends inside.
Done!

Now you can put the hat on your gnome and enjoy his amusing look. He will surely bring a smile to everyone’s face when they take off his hat.
Hast du dich jetzt mit dem Wichtel-Fieber angesteckt? – Nicht so schlimm. Ich habe hier noch ein paar tolle Häkelanleitungen für niedliche Wichtel. Schau mal hier!

Wenn es dir zuhause an ein wenig Magie fehlt, dann kannst du dir einfach einen Zauberwichtel häkeln. Magnus Magicus zaubert deinen neugierigen Gäste mit Sicherheit ein tolles Lächeln ins Gesicht.

Passend zur Vorweihnachtszeit kannst du dir auch einen Weihnachtswichtel häkeln. Samtan Salaputius bringt bestimmt nicht nur Kinderaugen zum Strahlen.

Von unserem Weihnachtswichtel gibt es übrigens auch noch eine kleine Version. So kannst du dir einen Mini-Weihnachtswichtel häkeln und überall dahin mitnehmen, wo noch Weihnachtsstimmung benötigt wird.

Und weil man irgendwie nie genug Weihnachtswichtel im Haus haben kann, findest du hier gleich noch eine Häkelanleitung für einen Weihnachtswichtel.

Wenn du gern einen Wichtel für das ganze Jahr haben möchtest, wäre vielleicht die Häkelanleitung für den Amigurumi Flickenwichtel genau das Richtige für dich.
